working on my #18thcentury stays today. These are accurate to the mid 18th century; the outfit I’m building is c. 1760. I’m using Simplicity 8162, developed by American Duchess. Since this is my first set of stays, I opted for a pattern that’s beginner friendly, and I’m using my sewing machine rather than period accurate hand sewing. At this point I have the fashion fabric and coutil interlining cut and basted together; next step is to sew the boning channels & insert boning (heh).
Boning channels stitched in a lot faster than I expected! Now I have to figure out my next steps because I’m doing things differently from the pattern, as usual. Instead of sewing the lining in one with the interlining and fashion fabric, I’m lining at the end (which is also American Duchess’s method); I have to decide when I’m going to add the eyelets, since I want to try it on for sizing before I line and bind. I’m really happy with how the red thread looks!
the instructions on this pattern are a little weird to me because I’ve watched a bunch of construction videos and I don’t think ANY of them follow the stated technique. Guess that’s to be expected from a big 4 pattern.
Basic construction is done! I did a fit check by pinning the back and holding it together; honestly it’s still borderline bigger than I was hoping for (this is after sizing down!) but I think finishing the edges will shave an inch or so off anyway. The pattern has a reputation for being short wasted, but I too am short waisted, so we’re a good match.
The pattern says to first add straps, then bind the bottom edge, insert boning, bind the top edge, and add eyelets, because they sew the lining in with the other layers. As I’m sewing the lining separately, I want to sew it before binding the bottom edge, so I can bind the lining too. And I want to add the bones before I line it. Hmph.
I *almost* made my first set of stays entirely hand sewn using the Scroop Augusta pattern… decided to do this one first but I do have a knack for finding the difficult ways to do things
uh! I also have the Augusta stays, I've cut the paper pattern in what seems to be my size and now it's there, on the pile of WIP, until I decide whether I want to sew them by hand or by machine using the theatrical instructions.
Or rather, one day I want to sew one by hand in vintage linen. but first I want to try them for fit in cotton, and I'm not sure if I also want to practice the technique, or if I want to see results sooner :D
Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •#sewing #historicalsewing
Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •1. insert boning
2. add straps
3. lining
4. binding edges
5. lacing eyelets
The pattern says to first add straps, then bind the bottom edge, insert boning, bind the top edge, and add eyelets, because they sew the lining in with the other layers. As I’m sewing the lining separately, I want to sew it before binding the bottom edge, so I can bind the lining too. And I want to add the bones before I line it. Hmph.
Gilbert Busana
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •first it's just a lining, and after a while you find yourself sewing a full garment by hand :D
Gilbert Busana
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla'' likes this.
Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •Or rather, one day I want to sew one by hand in vintage linen. but first I want to try them for fit in cotton, and I'm not sure if I also want to practice the technique, or if I want to see results sooner :D
Gilbert Busana
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla'' • • •Elena ``of Valhalla''
in reply to Gilbert Busana • • •But I've made a few modern patterns from Scroop Patterns and they are always so well made!