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It begins.

a paper pattern of a sleeve in the process of being widened at the top: the basic sleeve is at the bottom, then there is a sheet of semitransparent tissue paper on top, and the pieces from another copy of the top half of the sleeve spread out on top.

I'm actually not sure whether I'll go fully #1890s with this jacket (with moderation :D) or I'll keep the sleeves fitting: I'll decide after I've sewed a mock-up.

#sewing #HistoricalSewing @sewing group

#sewing #historicalsewing #1890s @u/sewing
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
but valhalla, you may ask, what happened to the red shirt you were sewing?

yeees, weeeellll.

it's still missing just the reinforcement patches, I may have been procrastinating them :D
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Abigail
Abigail
•
I first read that as #1980s and nearly had a breakdown over the #HistoricalSewing hashtag! :D
#historicalsewing #1980s
in reply to Abigail

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Abigail the 1980s are pretty much vintage already, it doesn't take that much to become historical sewing :D

(yes, I was already there in the 1980s, (too?) even if I was too young for fashion :D )
@Abigail
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Abigail
Abigail
•
it's when I see people in 90's fashion calling it retro that I need a wee sit down! 😆
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •

I'm not proud of this layout, but it's just the mockup, I'll do better with the real fabic (where the pieces will probably be shorter, so I would have had to change the layout anyway)

the pieces for a jacket laid on unbleached cotton fabric: it's not the most efficient layout, and a lot of the seam allowances are irregular because there wasn't enough space between the corners of the pieces.

#sewing

#sewing
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •

Content warning: eye contact, sewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
•
It looks inside out…
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua both the sleeve and the bodice are sewn with the allowances on the outside: this way it's easier to move the seams while fitting the mock up and mark any change.

Any fitting done on the real fabric will happen with the seams allowances towards the inside, of course.

#sewing
#sewing @rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Shield Maiden
Shield Maiden
•
Are you actually using an old pattern or copying something by eye?
in reply to Shield Maiden

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Shield Maiden I've drafted a block based on The cutters’ practical guide to the cutting of ladies’ garments https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/ (which I have already used on another jacket), changed the front (successfully) to have an opening and tried to enlarge the sleeve with dubious results.

I'm taking inspiration from various fashion plates and existing garments, but not from a specific one (and the sources vary a bit in the dates, between the second half of the #1880s and the first half of the #1890s).

And I already know that the straight 1880s sleeve from that jacket block works, so I may be tempted to just go with it.

#sewing #HistoricalSewing
#sewing #historicalsewing #1880s #1890s @Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Shield Maiden
Shield Maiden
•
I was very very lucky years ago when living in France to visit an Emmaus former factory filled with second-hand goods over several floors...I found an entire set of clothing patterns from the mid 1800s, all printed on tissue paper, with each garment using a different dotted line. I made one jacket, which I had to insert two extra panels into the front as my waist was not as small as the pattern! A great find.
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Shield Maiden
Shield Maiden
•
Here are some photos of the jacket. What was interesting was that the sleeve is in 2 parts and cut curved round to the front, following the natural position of arms when hands are held loosely together at the front and so some of the fabric is on the bias.
1800s jacket pattern in grey fabric.
in reply to Shield Maiden

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Shield Maiden that's really nice!

the sleeves from the cutters’ practical guide are also a bit curved: they aren't on the true bias, but not on the straight grain either (and I can confirm from my other jacket that they really follow nicely the line of the arm)
@Shield Maiden
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

gailsedotes
gailsedotes
•
@Judeet88 ebay is your friend. I have bought digital French pattern magazines from the time period there.
@Judeet88
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
yeah, I've compared to a finished jacket and I had indeed attached the left sleeve to the right armscye :D

oh, the joys of #HistoricalSewing and of not adding alignment notches to the patterns you've drafted :D

#sewing #patternDrafting
#sewing #historicalsewing #patternDrafting
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •

Content warning: eye contact, sewing

#sewing #historicalsewing
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Giselle's very old account
Giselle's very old account
•
Looks great! Did they use to sew something like sleeve rolls into the sleevehead? Or is that a modern thing?
in reply to Giselle's very old account

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Giselle I'm not sure if they had exactly sleeve rolls, since afaik that's a tailoring technique, but I'm quite sure that they had various types of stiffening and padding and sometimes even hard structures to keep the sleeves up.
@Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Giselle's very old account
Giselle's very old account
•
It would be fascinating to find out what sort of stiffening and structures were used. Could have been different kinds, developed in different geographic areas and taught by one person to those they knew.
Will make sure to keep my eyes open if I come across any info like that. Interesting that shoulder rolls are tailoring, I didn't know that. But then I'm a total amateur.
Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@kamikat this means I really have to try and understand what went wrong and fix it, rather than go back to the known good one, right? :D
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •

Have I ever mentioned how much I love *having marked* the seamlines on fabric with tailor's tacks?

and how much I hate actually doing it? :D

paper pattern pieces laid over dark fabric, half of one piece has been trasfered to the fabric with tailor's tacks

it took me the whole day to lay the pattern on the fabric and start doing that little bit, thanks to interruptions and procrastionation.

(also, apparently I got the problematic update on my #pinephone that broke taking pictures :D )

#sewing #HistoricalSewing

#pinephone #sewing #historicalsewing
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •

ok, apparently the accepted way to get a pattern to be transferred on fabric with tailor's tacks is to remain in the same room with the fabric and actually do it, with no interruptions. who could have thought!

paper pattern pieces laid out on dark fabric and completely outlined with tailor's tacks in basting thread

(yes, the green tint on the photo still comes from the #pinephone and its updated software)

now it's tea time, and then maybe before this evening I'll cut everything out and move on to cutting the lining. if I don't have to do other things (such as maybe look at what happened to the pinephone camera software? maybe).

#sewing #HistoricalSewing

#pinephone #sewing #historicalsewing
This entry was edited (1 year ago)
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Ailbhe
Ailbhe
•
"ok, apparently the accepted way to get a pattern to be transferred on fabric with tailor's tacks is to remain in the same room with the fabric and actually do it, with no interruptions"

Sounds incredibly unfair, definitely write to the management
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
•
i first thought you are sewing fluorescent stuff to your victorian dresses now :D
in reply to :gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@:gnu: bonifartius 𒂼𒄄 well, another other thing I've done today is remove the core from some high-vis paracord with the idea one day¹ to sew it as if it was soutache on a cloak, so… it may not be *that* unlikely? :D

¹ I've been *very* slow in removing that core.
@:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
:gnu:+bonifartius 𒂼𒄄
•
i like high-vis colors :) could look pretty cool as soutache (i had to look that up :)
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

soil gremlin
soil gremlin
•
the cutting process is truly such a drag every time. What pattern are you using?
in reply to soil gremlin

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@soil gremlin the ladies' jacket from https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/page/6/mode/2up https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/page/n65/mode/2up , cut at waist length (and with the sleeve head enlarged, and the front cut, of course).

Cutting for simpler things, where one can just cut without marking the seam lines isn't that bad, but any time one is doing something a bit more structured, yeah.
@soil gremlin
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Giselle's very old account
Giselle's very old account
•
Boo to the phone breaking, but it got you very exciting looking photos! They look almost otherworldly.
in reply to Giselle's very old account

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Giselle it's just a software issue, it will be fixed (that's what I get by using an unconventional phone, I guess).

I also took pictures with the real camera, but those require downloading from the card and editing and… :D

Now that you mention it, they do look otherworldly, I like it!
@Giselle's very old account
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
And now I'm wondering: are 80 cm of 150+cm wide fabric enough for a pair of cycling knickers? Do I want to stand up, look for the actual pattern I was working on and check? (not now) Is there something else I can do with that fabric that I would wear more? (maybe? I could do a vest, and I do wear those, but I'm also planning a few vests in other materials I already have, so maybe those will be enough?)
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

MagdoLena9
MagdoLena9
•
I'm estimating but it's probably not enough fabric unless you piece it heavily. Are you sewing from modern pattern with fabric requirements already calculated on the envelope/in the instructions?
in reply to MagdoLena9

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@MagdoLena9 lol, no, that would be too easy :D

I'm drafting them from period instructions, or rather I drafted them from period instructions in summer 2021, made one mockup and then put them on hold because I wasn't sure about the fabric to use and I had more urgent projects.
@MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

MagdoLena9
MagdoLena9
•
oh, yeah, I know a lot about putting projects off. Well, I'd love to see how this project goes — I hope to make them for myself one day.
in reply to MagdoLena9

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@MagdoLena9 don't hold your breath, it may go back to the wait list.

but one day a pair of cycling knickers will happen, and I will post about it :)
@MagdoLena9
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Rivikah
Rivikah
•
Depends on the style you're aiming for and the size you need, but...Probably not unless you are very small and aiming for a fitted style.
in reply to Rivikah

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
@Rivikah the first mockup I did, after following the drafting instructions was pretty fitting.

For the second attempt I enlarged them (and then I didn't do the second mockup).

Now, they are below-the-knee length, so each leg is just above 80 cm long and it would probably fit on the fabric (there is some leeway because it's the leftovers from the jacket, it's not a straight cut).

The two leg sides for the wider version are not going to fit on the fabric side by side, but the original one may, maybe, possibly with a tiny bit of piecing, or by using the wiggle room.

I would have to be creative with the waistband, but I think I can get the various facings etc. from the jacket scraps, probably, maybe.

First I'll finish the jacket, so if disasters happen I have a safety net to recut pieces, and if I find I need something more for the accessories I can get it.

But afterwards, if I still have this much fabric, I can probably try it.

Unless I get other ideas.

#sewing #HistoricalSewing
#sewing #historicalsewing @Rivikah
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Giselle's very old account
Giselle's very old account
•
@Rivikah Sounds like an intriguing challenge! Maybe the waistband could be a different material? Even making a feature out of a problem by going wildly different/contrasting? But the layout will surely show if feasible. Good luck with whatever project you decide to do!
@Rivikah
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Elena ``of Valhalla''
Elena ``of Valhalla''
• •
Almost all of the fabric (main, lining, interfacings) has been cut.

Now I should be basting all pieces together with their interfacing and linings, but that requires being at the table, and this evening I'm attending https://fossandcrafts.org/hack-and-craft/ and need something to do in front of the computer, so I've started working on one of the plastrons, the one with soutache decorations.

And now I'm asking myself: why can't I accept a soutache decoration where the braid is placed on top of previous parts of the braid? why do I have to insist on it being a proper knot? :D

(there are pictures in the good camera. one day they will be copied to the computer and posted in this thread. this is not that day :) )

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